It was really exciting to hear that the Victoria & Albert Museum is to stage the first UK exhibition dedicated to the work of French couturière, Gabrille ‘Coco’ Chanel, a woman who has revolutionised the world of fashion in such a powerful way that we still associate certain clothes with her, such as the little black dress or the tweed tailored suit.
She was undoubtedly a visionary, liberating women from the constraints of uncomfortable corsets and letting them move freely and feel at ease with her effortlessly chic style.
The exhibition will chart the evolution of this style and the establishment of the House of Chanel, from the opening to her first millinery boutique in Paris in 1910, to the showing of her final collection in 1971.
Based upon the Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto exhibition organised by the Palais Galliera, Paris, the exhibition will be re-imagined for the V&A and feature rarely seen pieces from the V&A’s collection, alongside looks from Palais Galliera and the Patrimoine de CHANEL, the heritage collections of the fashion house in Paris.
"Fashion has become a joke. The designers have forgotten that there are women inside the dresses. Most women dress for men and want to be admired. But they must also move, to get into a car without bursting their seams! Clothes must have a natural shape." Coco Chanel
Just as her words, her clothes are timeless. Chanel's glamorous evening dresses and ensembles could easily be worn today. We all recognise Chanel’s tweed skirt tailored suit, popularised by prominent women in the limelight throughout the years, from Jacqueline Kennedy and Princess Diana to many movie stars such as Marlene Dietrich and Keira Knightley.
Despite Chanel’s humble beginnings, her talent and perseverance enabled her to build an empire. Coco Chanel was totally devoted to her business and worked until the end of her life. She was the first designer to ever lend her name to a fragrance, the legendary Chanel No. 5.
"What do you wear to bed? Chanel No. 5!” Marilyn Monroe
She continues to inspire many people and a wide range of writers and photographers have been publishing books about her, including Justine Picardie, who shed some light on the person behind the brand.
Despite the controversy and tragic elements surrounding her life, Chanel will always represent a turning point in fashion history. The House of Chanel keeps the legend alive and carefully selects the brand’s ambassadors in a strategic way.
The silver screen has also paid tribute to one of the most legendary women in fashion. Audrey Tautou played her in Coco Before Chanel, depicting her bravery, commitment and unconventional nature.
"Fashion passes. Style remains." Coco Chanel
In Coco Chanel and Igor Stravinsky Anna Mouglaglis has a strong presence, but her aristocratic looks betrayed who Chanel really was: a self-made woman. Chanel made questionable and often unscrupulous choices in her personal life, nonetheless, her brilliance as a style visionary continues to inspire and influence others to this day.
Chanel Spring 2022 Couture show
Chanel designed first and foremost for herself. By creating clothes fit for an independent and active lifestyle, she anticipated the needs and wants of the modern woman.
“As one of the most successful fashion houses in existence, Chanel owes much to the templates first laid down by its founder Gabrielle Chanel, over a century ago. We are delighted to be partnering with Chanel and the Palais Galliera on this exhibition.” Tristram Hunt, Director of the V&A
Through eight themed sections, the exhibition will explore Chanel’s innovative approach to fabric, silhouette, and construction and will examine how she drafted a new framework for fashion in the twentieth century. Can hardly wait for it!
Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto
16 September 2023 - 25 February 2024
London
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